Shanghai Second letter
Who among you is a fan of Corrado Guzzanti and associates surely remember those magnificent spot titled "The House of Freedom," in which the characters behaved within the four walls of the home at least unusual and so oblivious to the bon ton . During this first week long in our wanderings increasingly seemed that the famous slogan of those spots could, with a slight modification, to become the motto of the Chinese road, "and the road of freedom, we are a bit like us or c. .. it seems. " Regardless of the medium used, be it an SUV, a bicycle, a cart always reliable or winged feet, it seems that the roads are considered as a neutral surface, without any special rules, direction of travel, almost like a large lawn on which to hang your tablecloth, pull out the basket with food and enjoy a healthy picnic. This atmosphere Arcadian / Tropical sees then the presence of another local institution, the forests of electric cables. Infinite trajectories, tangles and shapes entertain tourists and locals alike, to the delight of young and old.
Leaving the big city at the moment, we return happy and dusty island (there are great work being done on the centennial of Tongji, coming May 20) on campus. We stayed at the first meeting with the prof.Lou, which proved quite satisfactory, since it was revealed a deep knowledge of the issues that will Ludovico (2010 expo and image of the city). He was kindly provided a useful first text, a special issue of the magazine "Ideal Space", published by the Tongji University, devoted exclusively to the expo. The next day, the bold young men have passed through Nanjing Road, a pleasant thoroughfare pedestrian shopping area of \u200b\u200bwestern-influenced, with destination Piazza del Popolo, the heart of the city, where among the many other public buildings is the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center: centerpiece of the exhibition is a giant model of the future city, impressive in size and quality of detail. I think that, taking into account differences due to different historical era, somehow the huge urban redevelopment in Shanghai has many similarities with the one made by Baron Haussmann in Paris in the nineteenth century. Even here, in particular at the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center, you can take the same determination, will and awareness of what you are doing and what you want get (Haussmann: "Paris est pour ses habitants a grand marché de consommation, an immense chantier de travail, d'une arène ambitions, ou seulement a rendez-vous de plaisirs. Ce n'est pas leur pays ...", or Julius Meyer still, always on the Paris of the nineteenth century. "This pump has something oppressive, as well as the haste with which you are relentless transformation of the city, preventing anyone, native or foreigner who is, to catch my breath and senses (...) The feverish haste, which compresses a decade in the work of centuries, takes my breath away "). Hence the five maxims of the transformation of Pudong, which is light, elegant, growth rate, people, or a statement of intent for the Expo ("Improving the image of the city of Shanghai and turn it into an international metropolis with civility and grace"), or the theme of the Expo itself ("the best city life"). Perhaps at times like this is not matched by its lucidity, clarity and consistency of the other stages of processing. The comparison with Paris becomes glaring when one comes across a model that clearly alludes to the famous boulevards of the new sections in which they highlighted the technical innovations applied to the sewer system operators. It is a cross-section of a hypothetical road of Shanghai, in whose belly a group of fluorescent tubes of different diameters is underground and the rationalization of the supply system, including the burial of the famous tangle of cables I mentioned earlier. Very significantly, then a sort of table where there are models of housing types in the past, present and future, as if to witness and celebrate the passing of the baton.
On the way to the Promised Land (a steaming plate of spaghetti at the home of providential Sabina) our then passed through a block lilong, dense residential neighborhoods built in the twenties by the West and now inhabited by Chinese families. Access doors to these isolates to introduce rhythm and lifestyle diametrically opposed to those of the city of skyscrapers and wide avenues, concentrates and mixes everything from physical dimensions, the smells, to human activities. Along the dilapidated lilong (the dense neighborhoods built by Western popular in the last century) and the ancient Chinese settlement comes to mind the lament of Baudelaire ("La vieux Paris n'est plus. La forme d'une ville plus change lives, Helas ! que le coeur d'a mortel. ") to the ancient and mysterious Paris that was disappearing under the relentless action of the Prefect of culinary Senna.Le Italic sirens eventually led to Louis to enjoy a vantage point opposite the city to that of lilong, being a feast on the top floors of a high residential tower. The situation appears even more clearly from above, and the sound of great relevance Behne's words about the Mietkasernen Berlin: "The barracks (but the same goes for towers in gated communities, ed) is the last feudal castle, which owes its existence and its form to the brutal struggle between the individual and selfish landowners for the possession of the soil, which during the competitive conflict has been shattered and divided into small pieces. So it's no wonder even if we see reappear in the form of the old castle - in the courtyard surrounded by walls. The owners, against each other are separated, and this is one of the reasons why at the end of a random residual remains of the entire surplus. "
Very pleased with the hearty lunch, we have then through a rather more lively Chinese quarter, before reaching Qipu Lu (Lu means road, ed), long road surrounded by numerous shopping centers, typically frequented by Chinese. Within the centers, the situation is surreal, like being in a commercial version of the famous Library of Babel, Borges's story: here the "hexagonal galleries, with vast air shafts in the middle, lined with low railings" are replaced small shops clothing, always occupied by two or three orders with hair almost always flowing, colorful and bizarre, and a huge amount of clothes. These spaces seem to be repeated endlessly in every direction, and find the exit is not easy. A few steps reappear here and the now usual dense neighborhoods, now no longer made with elegant colonial buildings but modest buildings to two or three floors: the living conditions are not the best, everyone here dreamed of living in an apartment with modern standards, but jumps now eyes the rich and impassioned social network. The public dimension of every daily activity resembles that of Mediterranean countries (Dupassage: "Dans les pays méridionaux tout, ou la conception de la rue populaire veut que les maisons des exterieurs paraissent plus habités" que leurs intérieurs, cette exposition de la streets privée des habitants contests demeures une valeur de leurs lieu secret here aiguise curiosity des étrangers. The impression est la même dans les Foires: tout y est exposé à la rue is abondamment que ce qui n'y est pas takes the force of a Mystery "), though here perhaps all went even more extreme, odors of the din.
The following day saw the Italic troops, led by revived Duan, go there to Xintiandi, a favorite destination for tourists and Western success and a little "lick" operation for the conservation of some of the most elegant areas lilong of the city. There is also the building where in 1921 he held the first meeting of the Communist Party, as well as numerous restaurants, cafes and trendy nightclubs. Puts a bit of melancholy think that probably in a few decades, the memory of the ancient and fascinating lilong will be entrusted only to those buildings almost embalmed. The daring expedition, always well-helmet pulled down over his forehead, then continued towards the area of \u200b\u200bthe first ancient Chinese settlement, probably where the living conditions over the centuries are not really changed much. The road is under the total control of pedestrians and cyclists, an intricate patchwork of cloth spread out on the street and carts is an exhibition space and sales for a range of goods, from strawberries to turgid vibrators (not those for cement, ed), some delight in dialogue with the pigeons on the roofs, the most loudly vociano exhausted. The fearless leader, seeing that the pale troops needed refreshment, having previously put in more anesthetized with pagodas playground for tourists and locals alike, has identified a good sort of grill, where they served a variety of sauces and soups which to tell the truth have met little feared the mouth of Louis, in fact do with that war are being reckless then up a tasty kebab sheep.
arrived on Thursday, the troops had pitched their tents in the study, when the sympathetic Professor Yin invites everyone for a typical lunch outside the island happy and dusty: the dishes are quite tasty and more substantial than the previous day, and sweet surprises: a sort of strudel with smoked pork and balls consistency of gummy rice noodles green (color given by a plant to be) inside with a compote of some fruit, that we presume to have identified in carob. On that afternoon, while Louis gasps after the hearty lunch and try to type in a certain order apparently sense a fair amount of words, Maurizio arrives, a researcher at the VIU (among other things), which exhausted the commitments of the day is first introduced to the mysteries and wonders of the island happy, then, combined with Italic troops, he went to Bali at an elegant restaurant near Piazza del Popolo, the cheerful table of young men sitting in the Western (now of course is no longer needed stressed that the invitation has come from volcanic eruptions). Part of this move then to the bar Laris, one of the most fashionable of the city, which also tends glasses and seems to be marble. Here the evening proceeds happily, especially cheered by un'apprezzatissima and representative number of attractions from five continents. The only negative note: spotted and ingested a cocktail of the worst in history, which will be better for future generations forget the nome.Qui the scribe leaves you ...
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